The monastery of Liébana was a trascendental place both, religious and political, since the first times of the Reconquest. Beato de Liébana, who lived in the second half of the 8th century, very near the place where our church was built two centuries later, not only has been of great importance for his "Comments to the Apocalypse", that served as a model for one of the most important developments of miniature in the west of Europe along all its history, and for the discussion, supported by the Roman and French Churches, with Elipando de Toledo on the Adeptionist theory of this Mozarabic bishop, but also for his influence in the Asturian court, and for the collaboration of his unquestionable reputation in all Christian Europe, in the creation of the myth of Santiago de Compostela. Only 12Km far from San Toribio de Liébana -that by then its name was San Martín- in a small plateau that forms an oasis of vegetation within an impressive mountain environment, we find one of the most beautiful and best preserved monuments of Spanish art of the 10th century. It is in the chartulary of that monastery where we find the documents that inform that it was founded by Alfonso and Justa, counts of Liébana, possibly Mozarabic from Sevilla, around 924, which means that it was built somewhat later than Santa María de Wamba, San Miguel de Escalada and San Cebrián de Mazote and contemporary to Sahagún and Peñalba.
Built in masonry with big ashlars in the corners, its plan of 16m long by 12m wide, very similar to Wamba's, in which it could have been inspired, has the shape of a Greek cross, inlaid in a rectangle, almost a square, from which three flat apses hang out; the central one a bit longer If we leave aside its portico, its external image, in which each compartment corresponds to a level and a type of differentiated cover, it recalls San Miguel de Tarrasa, except that in the two front stretches of the central nave they form an only element much higher than the rest of the church (the portico was built at the same
| |||||
|
time than the vestry in the northern side, in the 18th century, for which also the western part of the southern wall was modified and the roof of the chamber in the southwest angle, leaving in the air a beautiful set of modillions in its interior). But its interior is more impactful, divided in twelve squares, all communicated between them except the two lateral compartments in the west side and the two lateral apses, that in both cases are separated from the central one by closed walls. For the covering system, independent in all stretches, it has not been used any of the usual techniques in Mozarabic constructions, going back to the Visigothic and Asturian ones, since all spaces are covered by barrel vaults at different levels, placed longitudinally in the central nave, the chevet and the three central compartments of the lateral naves, whereas in the two central compartments of the lateral naves, they are placed perpendicular to the high vault of the central nave, providing stronger consistency to the ensemble with a solution we have already seen in the chevet of the Visigothic In its internal structure we see again an interesting This feeling of independence of the different spaces is stressed by the difference of height of the vaults, what also produces arches practically of the same size but with diferent heights between the different compartments, for what a very original solution has been chosen through the utilization of columns of different height attached to the same pillar, all of them cylindrical upon Athenian bases, finishing in Corynthian type capitals, with vegetal decoration and Asturian wreathed collars, and keel mouldings upon them in the shape of truncated pyramid. The final result, of surprising aesthetics is that at each side of a pillatser there are columns and capitals, very similar, but staggered, forming a sort of optical spiral that |
| increases the sensation of lightness of the ensemble. A special mention deserves the sculptoric decoration in the church's interior and exterior, where we also find Visigothic, Asturian and Mozarabic precedents. In the interior is worth noticing a big slab that was showing its rear face in the front of the altar and its parish priest put it to sight in the middle of the last century. It is decorated with a big circle of 90cm diameter that has a 16 radius svastica inlaid surrounded by other six decorated rosettes, all Visigothic type or maybe earlier. The whole set of Corynthian type capitals with two or three rows of acanthus leaves is clearly Mozarabic, similar to those of Mazote, although with wreathed collars, typical in Asturian art. In the exterior, besides the very narrow windows ending in horse shoe arch engraved in a stone, with interior embrasure, it is interesting to notice the Visigothic influence in the decoration of modillions -restored at the end of the 19th century when the unattached tower that did not exist in the original church-, formed by 4 to 6 circles on each side, where there are svasticas engraved and six branch rosettes, and in the friezes that support them, that include vegetal and geometrcal drawings that recall those of San Juan de Baños. In summary, Santa María de Lebeña is a monument that has to be visited, not only for being a Pre Romanesque construction of great beauty and interest, but also for being one of the works where the fusion between the Visigothic, Asturian and Mozarabic styles may be analyzed more clearly.
OTHER INFORMATION OF INTEREST Access: Leave Santander and take A-67 to Burgos-Torrelavega; in Torrelavega take A8 to Oviedo until exit 272 to N621 towards Panes-Potes; continue around 29Km until Cillorigo. Total distance: 98.7Km. Information telephone: Obispado de Santander: 942 84 03 17 Visiting hours: 110:00 to 13:30 hours and 16:00 to 19:30 hours. Closed Mondays and during religious service. Guided Visits: July and August (everyday), April (Easter), June and September (weekends) and December (long weekend of Inmaculada and Christmas).
Admission fee: One joint ticket to visit also Santa María de Piasca: 2€.
|